Chapter 117
Ah! Pencil! Why must you be a pencil!
How was it possible that such a marvelous tool exists in this world?
The grip is so comfortable and effortless, the variation in shades so fluid and natural and with just a slight turn of the tip, the thickness of the lines changes…
After sketching, Cui Xie had no desire to ink the lines at all!
One pair of eyes after another swiftly took shape under Cui Xie’s hands.
First a pair of ordinary eyes with sparse and short eyelashes appeared; then, he drew the shape of those eyes when closed; and below, step by step, he illustrated the makeup application process—
Eyeliner, applied thinly or thickly, long or short, with the upper line either sharply lifted, snugly following the contours of the eye or gently drooping; the lower eyeliner, either drawn fully or halfway on the waterline….
When the eyes opened again, each pair of round, dull, ordinary eyes transformed into ones imbued with different dynamics of charm and expression, incomparable to their unadorned state.
Of course, this liveliness might also be attributed to the highlights added to the pupils. In any case, Cui Xie spent half of the night studying various detailed makeup tutorials and gained an unprecedented understanding of cosmetics. He also observed that many performers’ eye makeup included a slightly smudged, softer black at the outer corners of the eyes— this certainly was not just eyeliner smudging onto the eyelids, surely it must be black eyeshadow powder?
Since professional makeup artists utilize this technique, eyeliner should indeed be paired with eyeshadow.
However, the color mixed with refined sesame oil appeared a bit too shiny and heavy. It worked well as eyeliner, but applying it all over the eyes would be excessive. For now, the powder made from the eyebrow stone would have to suffice as a substitute.
Fortunately, Cui Xie’s creation of eyeliner had already positioned his family at the forefront of the Ming Dynasty’s cosmetics market. He would let the customers gradually acclimate to using eyeliner first. Once they were accustomed, he estimated that he would also be able to decipher the stage makeup techniques by then and then they could launch complete eye and face makeup sets.
Cui Xie, entirely absorbed in the art of makeup, did not realize that he, a former tasteless straight man who could not even tell if his classmates wore makeup, had, under the influence of capitalism, slipped deeply into the abyss of cosmetics.
He covered his sketches with transparent parchment paper and handed them to Cui Qi the next day, instructing the others to rush them over to the Peace of Mind Study for printing. He also instructed Cui Qi to inform Cui Ting at the cosmetics shop to commission a finely crafted box with a red damask cover and velvet lining, Inside, they would place a few small brushes with fine, yet sturdy tips, along with the eyeliner paste, instructions and brushes, all ready for Gao Su’s people to collect.
Cui Qi was already familiar with both the cosmetics shop and the employees there, as he was learning to work as a clerk. Given his unique status, he found it easy to communicate his requests and the tasks were completed swiftly. In contrast, Gao Su’s arrangements for the opera troupe were slower. It was not until the eighth day of that month that he secured the services of the Mid Autumn Festival troupe and sent someone to the Peace of Mind Study to borrow the employees.
Gao Su, being the adopted son of a grand taijian and a company commander in the Jinyiwei, could not be taken lightly, Shopkeeper Ji personally delivered several boxes of eyeliner paste, along with top-quality face powder, lip balm and face cream. He also brought along a few clever clerks to discuss the Mid-Autumn Festival troupe’s makeup and stage effects with the Gao Residence’s Steward and Manager Wei of the troupe.
Manager Wei was worried that these shopkeepers and assistants might not understand makeup techniques or that the message might get lost in communication. To ensure clarity of communication, he even brought his lead performer, Little Yu Gui, along. Even if the others did not fully understand, as long as they conveyed the desired look, Little Yu Gui could figure out the details on his own.
To their surprise, Shopkeeper Ji presented a detailed instruction manual. It listed the names of different characters, each accompanied by a clear illustration, as if an ordinary looking person was peeking from behind the paper.
Under each name was a different eyebrow shape, yet the eyes were uniformly depicted. The eyebrow shapes varied from straight to curved. While unlike the fashionable styles of the day, they appeared as natural, as if they had grown in that way. Initially, the eyes were portrayed as seemingly ordinary, round and small. The illustrations progressed step by step, showing black lines meticulously drawn along the eyelashes. Once both the upper and lower eyelids were completed, a touch of black powder was added. When the eyes opened, they harmonized with the eyebrows, transforming a mundane visage into one of striking beauty, with a gaze that flowed gracefully and smoothly, immediately elevating them from commonness to exceptional allure of a beautiful woman.
While the Gao Residence’s members could not discern much, Manager Wei and Little Yu Gui, both experienced in female makeup techniques, immediately understood. They were adept at powdering the face, shaping eyebrows, rouging the cheeks, decorating the face with appliqués, dotting the face and applying slanted red crescents to the temples in a sequence of procedures1. With a single glance, they grasped the essentials of the manual.
Manager Wei flicked his fingertips in the air and said, “This makeup is clearly illustrated, Rest assured, da-ge, give us a day or two to practice and we will master it.” His eagerness was evident, as he was itching to return home and give it a try.
Shopkeeper Ji, in his considerate manner, handed over a makeup box and said, “It is a great honor that Gao da-ren has entrusted us with assisting in preparations for his grand banquet. Our Young Master specifically instructed us to ensure all the makeup products are ready for your family’s use. That is why I brought the latest and most popular products from the most popular cosmetics shop, the Hall of Glorious Brocade located in Nanguan district. Why don’t we book a private room? Manager Wei can test it here, which will also reassure this da-ge from the Gao Residence.”
If the makeup did not turn out well, face cream for makeup removal, scented soap for washing and an entire stick of cassia face powder and a five-inch long stick or rouge had been prepared, allowing for unlimited practice attempts.
Steward Gao, who had not accompanied the Company Commander on the day of the Mid-Autumn Festival before had been eagerly anticipating the opera at home, enthusiastically encouraged, “Manager Wei, why not give it a try first? This way, I can explain the details to our da-ren more clearly when I return. If the performance is particularly impressive, we might even invite your troupe to perform for a few extra days!”
Manager Wei’s eyes darted around as he pursed his lips and he nodded slightly, “You are both right. The sooner we practice, the better. My apprentice and I will start applying the makeup in a different room.”
Steward Gao replied, “There is no need for that. I will ask Shopkeeper Ji to find another place for us to drink. You two can stay right here and proceed to practice.”
He led Shopkeeper Ji to another room and quietly asked, “Is that makeup truly so easy to apply? Can our household entertainers learn it too?”
Shopkeeper Ji, though clueless about makeup, was bold and confident. He patted the table and said, “What is so difficult about it? Aren’t women naturally skilled at enhancing their features? Let us see how Little Yu Gui looks once he is done. If a man can learn it, surely a woman will have no trouble at all. If you have doubts, I will send a few boxes to you and see if your furen can apply it well.”
Steward Gao, sipping his drink, chuckled softly, “This is meant for beauties. My old furen surely cannot afford to use something like this.”
“Gao-xiong is too modest. Women rely on their makeup, and when done well, who isn’t a beauty?” Shopkeeper Ji casually praised the Hall of Glorious Brocade in passing, “I know their Shopkeeper; he is a meticulous person. The products they make are both excellent and exquisite. That is why we used their face powder when selecting the most beautiful women for putting on our Three Kingdoms play and beauty contest.”
As they chatted and drank, an hour or two passed before Manager Wei returned with Little Yu Gui.
Little Yu Gui hid behind Manager Wei, his head lowered as he entered the room. Manager Wei then stepped aside, allowing the youth to slowly raise his head. As his head lifted, his eyes suddenly widened, his gaze flitting between Shopkeeper Ji and Steward Gao. In that instant, he transformed from a delicate young man into an enchanting beauty with slightly upturned eyes, captivating and alluring.
But, his eyes were a bit red and his eyelids were slightly swollen, as if he had been crying.
Shopkeeper recognized the character immediately, “Diao Chan!”
No need to change his hairstyle or dress—those large eyes and that enchanting, rich makeup could only belong to Diao Chan!
Steward Gao was so astonished that his eyes nearly popped out. He took a sharp breath and said, “I have seen opera troupes before. Their performers have delicate features and are somewhat pretty, but not stunning. Yet, when they performed for your family, they all transformed into beauties with striking eyes and bold eyebrows. It truly changes a person’s appearance…”
Seeing this dramatic transformation, Steward Gao could not sit still any longer. He took the few boxes of eyeliner paste that Shopkeeper Ji had brought and hurried home to report his findings.
Once he left, the others naturally did not stay either. Shopkeeper Ji instructed the clerks to go with the opera troupe and teach them how to burn incense and manage the lighting effects. He himself then returned to the shop.
Manager Wei and his son also departed.
Little Yu Gui, reluctant to remove his makeup, stepped out with his face still adorned in vivid colors and lines. Before getting into the carriage, he smiled coquettishly at the street, his charm captivating the attention of both patrons in the restaurants and the idlers strolling on the street. The clerks from the Peace of Mind Study had arrived by carriage and were about to board when a regular customer stopped them, inquiring about the beautiful ‘woman’ dressed in male attire.
The clerks laughed and replied, “They are performing the Three Kingdoms opera and a prominent patron requested a play featuring the most beautiful woman. So, we helped them set up the stage. That beauty is actually a man, with his large eyes drawn using the new eyeliner paste from the Hall of Glorious Brocade in the Nanguan district. Does he not look just like someone straight out of a painting?”
“Eh?” The customer exclaimed in surprise. “His eyes were drawn? At my home…those who draw dark circles around their eyes always end up with a smudgy mess. It never looks this neat.”
“I could not tell either. I thought his long, thick lashes naturally made his eye sockets look dark,” another remarked.
The clerk smiled and said, “The makeup for the Three Kingdoms opera was originally done by them and others have merely copied it. How could imitators match those who have the secret recipe? Their eyeliner paste even comes with application instructions. The owner himself learned and demonstrated the technique. If you have the time to visit their establishment, you will see for yourself.”
The new eyeliner paste from the Hall of Glorious Brocade, once applied, remains flawless and unsmudged even in daylight, transforming anyone into a beauty!
Previously eye makeup was only applied on stage, looking good only when viewed from a distance. But with this new eyeliner paste and its accompanying instruction manual, eye makeup had truly transitioned from dominating opera and courtesan houses to even the ordinary household.
For a subtle look, one could apply a thin line around the edge of the eyes, giving the impression of almost no makeup, yet instantly making the eyes appear larger. For a more dramatic and rich effect, apply a light layer similar to applying rouge around the eyes. If it is too intense, a layer of face powder can tone it down, making it appear even more captivating under the lights.
It was not just women in the inner courtyards experimenting with this; even beauty-conscious men began to use it.
A few days after the eyeliner paste was officially launched, Cui Xie noticed several impeccably dressed, lightly made-up classmates at the academy. Ordinary scholars might not discern the difference between a bare face and light makeup, but Cui Xie, who had been studying makeup techniques diligently recently, could immediately tell that their eyebrows were groomed and their eyes were painted. He was so astonished that he was left speechless.
Some classmates, noticing his interest in students in the same Hall as them and sometimes catching him staring at their faces, they felt compelled to remind him, “We are not in the same circle as those noble and high-ranking officials’ sons. Staring at people like that, especially those we don’t know well, might offend them. Be careful not to annoy them.”
Cui Xie averted his gaze and laughed dryly, “I was merely admiring their meticulous appearance and could not help but take a few more glances. It seems that even the sons of nobles and high officials are adopting this…makeup trend?”
If it is fashionable among the sons of officials, would it also be fashionable among the Jinyiwei?
A classmate shook his head with a smile and said, “This is hardly a trend. Those tight-waisted robes and straight garments circulating outside are what is really fashionable. People are even skipping meals to avoid showing their bellies in those clothes. Here in the College, our attire has regulations and we are not allowed to casually wear such garments. Otherwise, you would see interesting outfits.”
This comment reminded Cui Xie of the time he was blocked at the Imperial College’s gates by three martial arts academy students showing off their imitation designer clothing.
The outfit he had made for Xie Ying had set off a capital-wide trend and now this makeup style had spread to the sons of civil officials. It was likely that the Jinyiwei and the sons of nobles would also compete to adopt it. But Xie Ying’s eyes were naturally large and beautifully shaped, making him look good even without makeup…he could not possibly be unaware of this trend while everyone else was following it, could he?
But what if Cui Xie sent it to him and Xie Ying saw the instructions as something meant for women and ended up giving it to his relatives?
Cui Xie wrestled with this dilemma for a long time and ultimately decided against sending makeup to his boyfriend. Instead, he sent a box of mooncakes, several sets of new books, a box of wooden pencils and a few thick notebooks with double lined grid patterns, along with a small knife for sharpening the pencils.
The Jinyiwei often had to travel for work and using brushes and ink was inconvenient. If they carried pre-sharpened pencils, one could jot down notes in the notebook anytime and any mistakes could be easily erased. Would that not be much more practical?
Cui Xie instructed Cui Qi to deliver the gifts. When Xie Ying returned home from training and saw the box of paper and pencils, he smiled after hearing the servants explain their use. “This pencil is quite interesting, much like an eyebrow pencil. Did he really say it for writing and not for ladies to draw their eyebrows? I have noticed his shop recently launched many new products; I thought he would send me some of their new eyeliner paste this time.”
The Old Steward remarked, “Da-ren has yet to take a wife and there are no concubines at home, so why would he send things meant for women? I think Young Master Cui is quite thoughtful with his gifts. This pencil can even write on wood and washes clean with water. You can write anything important on the wall by your bed, ensuring you will not forget or lose it.”
Xie Ying did not mind the Steward’s teasing and laughed, “That makes sense. I will give it a try.” He took the box into his inner chambers, sharpened a pencil and following his servant’s instruction, held it and slowly wrote the characters ‘Xinmao’ on the whitewashed wall located by his bed.
In the twentieth year of the Chenghua reign, on the xinmao day in the seventh month, Cui Xie confessed his feelings to Xie Ying in the Huang family’s gardens located outside the city. During the Ghost Festival, on the jihai day, they formally pledged their love for each other. Today is the dingmao day of the eighth month, and Cui Xie sent him a box of graphite pencils…
If he continued writing for a long time, I wonder if he would finish this box of pencils first, or if the wall would be so covered by the writings that it would need to be washed clean with water?
Xie Ying’s lips lifted up and he shook his head. He placed the pencil by his bedside, intending to leave, but then returned to the box, took a pencil, and tucked it securely into his waistband.
The Old Steward was still on standby outside. Seeing Xie Ying emerge from his inner chambers, he asked, “The festival gifts from the Cui Residence have arrived. What does da-ren plan to send in return? The usual gifts or something special?
Now that their relationship had changed, Xie Ying could not simply send a casual gift like he did to the others. However, unlike Cui Xie, who could come up with novel and unique ideas, he had to rely on what his household could provide—something that Cui Xie would like and find useful.
“Send some food and pastries, and find a pure white mare for him. His young stallion is at the age for breeding.”
Although the white mare was not of any renowned breed, its coat was remarkably pure. He had taken Cui Xie horseback riding a few times and had observed the youth in various outfits, riding different horses. He had a lingering impression in his mind—Cui Xie, with his good looks and fair complexion, would look even more striking in a snow-white, fitted robe. With the robe’s front and back hems draped over the horse’s back, swaying with the horse’s movements…
Indeed, riding a white horse suited Cui Xie the best.
Footnotes:
- If you want to learn more about the order of applying makeup and what I mean by decorating the face, please read here! https://euphoricsun.com/blogs/asian-inspiration-beauty/makeup-trends-through-ancient-chinese-history
Decorating the face included ornamental designs that were painted on (flowers, petals etc) to simulate high rank, dimples and makeup trends popularized by famous women in history. Particularly, xiehong is a form of decoration that included crescent-shaped designs painted at the temples. It is said that Xue Yelai, Wei Emperor Cao Pi’s consort bumped into a glass screen when attending to the Emperor in his study and received two long gashes beside her temples. As they healed, they became two red crescents that the Emperor praised to look like the rising sun peeking over the horizon. Hence, other women in the harem painted those crescent shaped motifs on their faces hoping to attract the Emperor and thus the practice was popularized. ↩︎
TN:
TN: Hope you all are doing well! I had a busy weekend so I missed posting on Sunday, my apologies! Enjoy 🙂
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Twin Dragons Translations 
He made another trend!
Thank You for the new chapter (ღゝ◡╹)ノ♡
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